Nasbinals

The 11th-century Romanesque church is built from dark basalt stone and has an octagonal bell tower that is visible from across the plateau. Inside, the proportions are perfect: simple, strong, and deeply peaceful. The carved capitals and the vaulted ceiling show the skill of the medieval stonemasons. The church has been welcoming pilgrims for nearly a thousand years. In the context of the vast, empty plateau surrounding the village, the church feels like a place of shelter in every sense.

The plateau around Nasbinals is one of the great landscapes of France. Treeless, open, and windswept, it stretches in every direction under an enormous sky. The Aubrac cattle, a distinctive breed with dark eyes and curving horns, graze the pastures. In spring, wildflowers carpet the ground. In autumn, the moors turn brown and gold. In mist, the landscape becomes otherworldly. Walk a short distance from the village in any direction and you are alone with the wind, the grass, and the sky. This is

Aligot is the signature dish of the Aubrac: mashed potatoes blended with Tomme fraiche d'Aubrac cheese and stirred vigorously until the mixture stretches in long, elastic ribbons from the spoon. It is traditionally served as a side dish with sausage or beef, but it is so rich and satisfying that it could be a meal on its own. Every restaurant in Nasbinals serves it, and the local version, made with cheese from the plateau's own dairies, is the best you will find anywhere. Do not leave Nasbinals

The stage from Nasbinals to Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac (or on to Saint-Come-d'Olt) crosses the heart of the Aubrac plateau and descends to the Lot valley. The crossing is exposed and can be challenging in poor weather. Mist and rain can reduce visibility dramatically. Carry water, food, and wet weather gear. In good weather, the 17 km stretch inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list between Nasbinals and Aubrac village is one of the most beautiful walks in all of France.