Negreira

The 14th-century manor house sits right on the Camino path, and you walk through its large stone archway as you leave town. The building is imposing, with thick granite walls and a coat of arms above the gate. The chapel of San Mauro is next door. Both are worth a moment's pause before you continue into the countryside.

Negreira has supermarkets, bakeries, and a pharmacy. Services become sparse after here, especially on the long second stage to Olveiroa (34 km). Buy water, snacks, and anything else you need. The bakeries sell excellent Galician bread that keeps well on the trail.

Negreira has several restaurants and bars serving Galician food at pilgrim prices. Order the caldo gallego, the empanada, or whatever the menu del dia offers. The portions are generous and the prices are fair. Eat early and rest well. Tomorrow is the longest stage on the Fisterra route.

Most Camino routes run west to east, or south to north, all converging on Santiago. This route goes the other way. You are walking away from the destination that everyone else is trying to reach. There is something liberating about this reversal. The pressure is off. There is nothing to prove. You are walking because you want to keep walking. Negreira is where that feeling begins.