Olveiroa

At Hospital, about 6 km after Olveiroa, the trail splits. Left to Fisterra (31 km). Right to Muxia (32 km). This is the big decision. Most pilgrims go to Fisterra first and then continue along the coast to Muxia. Either direction is beautiful. Ask fellow pilgrims for their recommendation, or follow your instinct. The signpost at the fork is clear and unmistakable.

Olveiroa has a particularly fine collection of horreos, the raised stone granaries that are a distinctive feature of the Galician landscape. These structures, elevated on stone pillars to keep out moisture and animals, were used to store crops. Several in Olveiroa are centuries old and beautifully preserved. Walk through the village and count them.

There is one restaurant in Olveiroa and it serves a pilgrim menu. After 34 km of walking, the food tastes extraordinary regardless of what is on the plate. The communal atmosphere at dinner is warm and relaxed. Everyone at the table has just walked the same long stage and everyone is thinking about the sea.

Olveiroa sits in a quiet river valley with green hills rising on both sides. In the evening, with the wind turbines turning silently on the ridgeline and the river flowing nearby, the silence is deep. Step outside after dinner and stand in the dark. Tomorrow you walk to the Atlantic Ocean. Tonight, the only sound is the wind.