Pontevedra

The entire historic centre of Pontevedra is car-free. Walk through the connected plazas without looking at traffic or breathing exhaust fumes. The granite buildings, the arcaded streets, the flower boxes on the balconies, and the constant murmur of conversation from the cafe terraces create an atmosphere that is civilised and deeply pleasant. The old town is compact enough to explore in an hour but interesting enough to spend an afternoon.

The Church of the Pilgrim Virgin has a floor plan shaped like a scallop shell, making it one of the most architecturally distinctive churches on any Camino route. The Baroque facade is elegant and the interior is surprisingly spacious. A daily pilgrim mass is held here. The church sits on the main Camino path through the city and is impossible to miss. The statue of the Pilgrim Virgin inside is dressed in pilgrim clothing and carries a staff and gourd.

The atmospheric ruins of the Gothic convent of San Domingos sit in the heart of the old town. The roofless nave, the standing walls, and the Gothic arches are open to the sky and create a hauntingly beautiful space. Stone sarcophagi and carved fragments are displayed among the ruins. It is one of the most photogenic spots in Pontevedra and a quiet contrast to the lively plazas nearby.

The Praza da Lena is a small, irregular plaza in the old town surrounded by traditional Galician houses with stone arcades and wooden balconies. Several restaurants and bars serve excellent food. Try the pulpo a feira, the empanada, or the raxo (fried pork loin). The plaza is atmospheric at any time of day but particularly lively in the early evening when locals gather for the pre-dinner tapa. Pontevedra is considered one of the best places to eat in Galicia.

Pontevedra is an excellent rest day candidate. The pedestrianised old town, the museum (Museo Provincial with a good collection including Galician art), the parks along the river, and the quality of the restaurants make it a city worth lingering in. You have about 60 km left to Santiago. A day of rest here, with good food and no walking, sets you up well for the final push.

After Pontevedra, you have a choice. The main Camino continues inland to Caldas de Reis (21 km). The Variante Espiritual (Spiritual Variant) branches off towards the coast, passing through the beautiful village of Combarro and continuing to Vilanova de Arousa, where you take a boat ride along the route traditionally believed to have carried the body of Saint James to Galicia. The boat brings you to Pontecesures/Padron, where you rejoin the main route. The Spiritual Variant adds a day.