Santarém

The old castle gardens at Portas do Sol sit on the edge of the bluff overlooking the Tagus valley. The views across the river and the endless Ribatejo plain are spectacular, particularly in the late afternoon when the light turns golden. There are benches, shade trees, and the remains of the Moorish fortifications. After climbing the hill into Santarem, you deserve this view.

Santarem has more Gothic churches than any other city in Portugal. The Igreja de Graca (14th century) has a magnificent rose window and the tomb of Pedro Alvares Cabral, the Portuguese navigator who discovered Brazil. The Igreja de Marvila has an interior covered in 17th-century azulejos (painted tiles) that are among the finest in the country. The Seminario and the Igreja de Sao Joao de Alporao (now an archaeological museum) are also worth visiting. A slow walk through the old town, stopping at

The medieval centre of Santarem is compact and hilly, with narrow streets, tiled buildings, and squares that open up unexpectedly. The Praca Sa da Bandeira is the main gathering point, lined with cafes and shops. The Torre das Cabacas (Gourd Tower), a medieval clock tower, is a distinctive landmark. Walk from the Portas do Sol through the old town to the central square, and you will pass centuries of Portuguese history in under a kilometre.

Santarem sits in the heart of the Ribatejo, and the food reflects the region's agricultural wealth. Try the sopa da pedra (stone soup, a hearty bean and meat broth that originated in nearby Almeirim), the grilled meats, and the local pastries. The Ribatejo wines are excellent and cheap. The restaurants around the Praca Sa da Bandeira and the old town serve traditional Portuguese food at fair prices.

Santarem is where the Camino Portugues and the Camino de Fatima share their path before diverging. Pilgrims heading to the famous Marian shrine at Fatima branch off here, while Santiago-bound walkers continue north. If you see blue arrows alongside the yellow ones, the blue ones point towards Fatima. You are on the yellow arrow path, heading north to Porto and beyond.