Saugues

The medieval defensive tower was built during the Hundred Years' War, when English forces occupied parts of central France. The tower is a simple, sturdy structure that dominates the town centre. It is a reminder that these highlands were contested territory for centuries. The tower is open to visitors and offers views over the town and the surrounding plateau.

Between 1764 and 1767, a mysterious creature (or creatures) attacked and killed dozens of people in the Gevaudan region surrounding Saugues. The story became one of the most famous mysteries in French history. Was it a wolf, a hyena, or something else entirely? The debate continues. A small museum in Saugues tells the story through documents, illustrations, and local accounts. The tale is macabre, fascinating, and deeply rooted in this landscape.

Saugues sits in the Auvergne region, known across France for its hearty mountain cuisine. The local dishes include aligot (mashed potatoes blended with melted Tomme fraiche cheese until it stretches in long, elastic ribbons), truffade (potatoes fried with cheese), saucisse seche (dried sausage), and lentilles du Puy (the famous green lentils from Le Puy, often served warm in a salad or with sausage). The food is designed for mountain weather and hungry walkers. It is rich, filling, and delicious

Saugues sits on a high plateau with wide views across the Margeride hills. In the evening, the light on the open landscape is beautiful, with long shadows and a quality of silence that is characteristic of these highlands. Step outside the town after dinner and walk for ten minutes in any direction. The openness, the sky, and the quiet are restorative after a demanding day of walking.