Triacastela

At Triacastela, the Camino splits into two routes to Sarria. The direct route via San Xil is shorter (18 km) and hillier. The alternative route via Samos is longer (25 km) but flatter and takes you past one of the largest and most important monasteries in Galicia. This is one of the few genuine choices a pilgrim makes on the Camino Frances. Ask fellow pilgrims which they recommend. There is no wrong answer.

In medieval times, pilgrims quarried limestone from the hills around Triacastela and carried it to the lime kilns further along the route. The lime was used in the construction of Santiago Cathedral. It was a form of pilgrim labour, a physical contribution to the building of the destination you are walking towards. Some pilgrims still carry a small stone from here to Santiago as a symbolic gesture.

Triacastela sits in a green valley at the bottom of the long descent from O Cebreiro. The village is named after three castles that once stood here, though none survive. The atmosphere is relaxed and gentle after the mountain. Walk the main street, find a terrace bar, and enjoy the feeling of being back at a low altitude with green hills around you.

You are in Galicia now and the food changes. Look for caldo gallego (Galician broth with greens, potatoes, and pork), empanada gallega (savoury pie with tuna or pork), and lacón con grelos (cured pork shoulder with turnip greens). The portions are generous and the prices are lower than in Castilla. A pilgrim menu here will be one of the best value meals on the Camino.