Palas de Rei

A remarkably well-preserved 14th-century castle about 3 km from the centre of Palas de Rei. It is one of the few Galician castles that survived the Irmandiño peasant revolts of the 15th century, when most feudal fortresses in the region were destroyed. The castle is open to visitors and houses a small exhibition. The tower and walls are impressive and the surrounding countryside is peaceful.

The countryside around Palas de Rei is quintessential Galicia: rolling green hills, granite farmhouses, stone walls, horreos (raised granaries), and eucalyptus groves. If you have time, walk out of the town along any of the small lanes and soak in the landscape. After the mountains and the Meseta, this gentle green terrain feels like a reward.

A Romanesque church in the centre of town with a simple but elegant carved doorway. The church has been modified over the centuries but the original Romanesque apse and some carved details survive. It is a modest building but representative of the many small rural churches that dot the Galician Camino.

You will start seeing Queso de Tetilla on menus from here onwards. This soft, creamy Galician cheese is shaped like a small breast (hence the name) and has a mild, buttery flavour. It is often served as a dessert with quince paste (membrillo) or honey. Also try the local empanadas and the pimientos de Padron, small green peppers fried in olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt. Most are mild, but one in ten is fiery hot. A Galician roulette.

From Palas de Rei, you have roughly 65 km to Santiago. Three more stages. The kilometre markers on the trail now count down in double digits. The anticipation builds with every village you pass through. Some pilgrims speed up. Others deliberately slow down, not wanting the walk to end. However you feel, let yourself feel it. The Camino is almost over.