Villafranca del Bierzo

The Church of Santiago has one of the most significant doors on the entire Camino: the Puerta del Perdon (Door of Forgiveness). In medieval times, pilgrims who were too sick or injured to continue to Santiago could pass through this door and receive the same spiritual indulgences as if they had completed the full pilgrimage. It only opens during Holy Years, but standing before it and understanding its history is moving at any time.

Villafranca del Bierzo was known as "Little Compostela" because of the Puerta del Perdon. The old town retains much of its medieval layout, with narrow streets, stone houses, and several churches and monasteries. The Iglesia de San Francisco was reputedly founded by Saint Francis of Assisi himself when he walked to Santiago. The Calle del Agua (Water Street) is the old pilgrim route through town.

You are deep in Galician-influenced territory now. The empanada (savoury filled pie, usually with tuna or pork) appears on most menus and is a Bierzo speciality. Pair it with a glass of local Mencia wine. The restaurants in the old town are simple but good. Try the pilgrim menu at one of the spots near the Iglesia de Santiago.

The river runs through the valley below the town, with the mountains rising steeply on both sides. The setting is dramatic and green, a world away from the flat brown Meseta you left behind days ago. Walk down to the old bridge and sit by the water. The sound of the river and the view of the valley are deeply restful.

Tomorrow's stage to O Cebreiro is one of the most challenging on the Camino, climbing steeply from the valley floor into the mountains of Galicia. The village of O Cebreiro sits at over 1,300 metres and marks the border between Castilla y Leon and Galicia. Rest well tonight. Eat well. Check the weather forecast. And know that when you reach the top, you will be in the final region of the Camino. Santiago is close.