Molinaseca

After the steep, punishing descent from the Cruz de Ferro, Molinaseca greets you with a natural swimming spot in the river right in the centre of the village. On a hot day, pilgrims wade in with their boots off and their feet aching. The medieval Puente de los Peregrinos (Pilgrims' Bridge) frames the scene. This is one of the most refreshing moments on the entire Camino.

A beautiful Romanesque bridge that has carried pilgrims over the Rio Meruelo for centuries. The bridge marks the entrance to Molinaseca from the mountain path. Walk across it slowly and look down at the clear river water below. After the rocky descent, this bridge feels like a gateway to a gentler world.

Molinaseca's main street is lined with stone houses, flower-filled balconies, and small bars with terraces. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Order a cold beer and sit in the shade. Some pilgrims like this village so much they decide to stop here rather than continuing to Ponferrada. There are worse decisions.

You have entered the Bierzo wine region, known for its Mencia grape reds. The wines here are lighter and fruitier than the Riojas you have been drinking for the past week. Order a glass at any bar in the village and taste the difference. The terraced vineyards on the surrounding hillsides are responsible for some of Spain's most exciting wines.