Grandas de Salime

One of the best small museums on any Camino route. The Museo Etnografico in Grandas documents the traditional way of life in the mountains of western Asturias: farming, animal husbandry, weaving, blacksmithing, and domestic crafts. The collection is thoughtfully presented and gives a vivid picture of the communities that have lived in these mountains for centuries. Entry costs around 1.50 euros and is well worth the time.

The Salime reservoir is one of the largest in Asturias, created by a massive hydroelectric dam on the Rio Navia. If you arrived from Berducedo today, you descended to this dam and crossed it on foot. The scale is impressive. There is a viewing balcony at the dam on the right-hand side of the road (walk through the door) that gives panoramic views over the water and the surrounding mountains. The reservoir is the most striking body of water on the Camino Primitivo.

About 5 km from Grandas, near the village of Castro, lies the Chao Samartin archaeological site, a fortified settlement dating to around 800 BC. The site was occupied from the Bronze Age through the Roman period. A small museum in Castro displays finds from the excavations, including pottery, tools, and metalwork. It is a short detour but offers a remarkable glimpse into pre-Roman life in these mountains.

Grandas de Salime is the last town in Asturias. Tomorrow you cross into Galicia and the food culture shifts. Tonight, enjoy one final Asturian meal: fabada, cachopo, cider, and local cheese. The restaurants in Grandas serve honest, filling food at fair prices. Raise a glass of sidra to Asturias. The mountains have been magnificent and the food has been extraordinary.