Salas

The collegiate church in the centre of Salas holds a remarkable surprise: the marble mausoleum of Fernando de Valdes Salas, carved by Pompeyo Leoni, one of the foremost sculptors of the Spanish Renaissance. The tomb is elaborate, detailed, and quite unexpected in a small Asturian town. The rest of the church is worth exploring too, with carved choir stalls and a peaceful interior.

The Torre de Salas, a fortified medieval tower, stands near the church and now houses a small local museum. The tower dates from the 14th century and offers a view over the town and the valley. It is a reminder that Salas was once a place of strategic importance, controlling the route through the mountains of western Asturias.

Cachopo is the signature dish of Asturias: two large fillets of beef stuffed with ham and cheese, breaded and fried. It is enormous, rich, and deeply satisfying after a day of hill walking. Salas has several restaurants that serve it well. Pair it with a bottle of cider and a salad. You will not be hungry again until breakfast.

Salas is compact and walkable. The stone buildings, the narrow streets, the church, and the tower create a townscape that feels authentically medieval without being a museum piece. People live here, work here, and drink cider here. The pace is slow and the atmosphere is warm. Take half an hour to walk the old town before dinner.