Tineo (Tinéu)

Chosco is a local smoked sausage unique to Tineo, made with pork, garlic, paprika, and spices, then smoked over oak wood. It has its own protected quality designation and the town is fiercely proud of it. Most restaurants in Tineo serve it, often as part of a larger Asturian meal with fabada (bean stew), cheese, and cider. It is smoky, rich, and delicious.

A short detour off the main Camino path leads to the Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de Obona, founded in the 8th century. King Alfonso II declared it an obligatory stop for pilgrims on the original route. The monastery is partly ruined but the Romanesque church survives, and inside there is a remarkable carved wooden crucifix that experts consider one of the greatest medieval sculptures in northwestern Spain. The detour adds a few kilometres but is well worth it.

Tineo sits on a plateau at 680 metres. From several viewpoints around the town, you can see the mountains stretching away in every direction. The valley below is green and deep, and on clear days the views extend for many kilometres. After the effort of the climb from Salas, stand at one of these viewpoints and appreciate where you are. You are now in the heart of the Asturian mountains.

The Palace of Meras is a stately historic building in the centre of Tineo, set within a small park. It was recently restored in keeping with its original features and represents the traditional architecture of the Asturian nobility. The building and its grounds are pleasant to walk through and offer a glimpse of the wealth that once flowed through this mountain town.

You are in the heartland of fabada, the rich bean and sausage stew that is the national dish of Asturias. The version served in Tineo's restaurants is hearty, thick, and made with locally cured meats including chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and lacón (cured pork shoulder). On a cool mountain evening after a day of climbing, there is no better meal. Order a full pot to share.