Cajarc

Cajarc's old quarter has narrow streets of golden limestone houses, medieval doorways, and a central place lined with cafes. The town has a well-maintained, lived-in quality that makes wandering its streets a pleasure. Look for the plaque on the childhood home of Georges Pompidou. The Saturday morning market fills the central square with local produce, cheese, wine, and the distinctive walnuts of the Lot.

The Lot River makes a wide, gentle bend around Cajarc, and the banks are accessible for a short evening walk. The river is calm here, reflecting the pale limestone cliffs that rise on the far side. In summer, locals swim in the river at designated spots. After a day of walking across the dry causses, the cool river air feels wonderful.

A contemporary art space housed in a medieval building, dedicated to the memory of Georges Pompidou, who grew up in Cajarc and went on to become President of France. The gallery hosts rotating exhibitions of contemporary art that are often surprising and high quality for a town this size. If it is open when you pass through, it is worth a visit. The juxtaposition of contemporary art and medieval stone is very Lot.

The Lot department has one of the richest food cultures in France. Cajarc's restaurants serve duck confit, foie gras, walnut salads, cabecou (small goat's cheese), and the dark, earthy wines of Cahors (made from the Malbec grape). The truffle season (winter) adds another dimension. Even outside truffle season, the food here is superb. Try a salade aux noix (walnut salad) dressed with walnut oil, a Lot speciality that tastes better here than anywhere else.

Between Figeac and Cajarc, the landscape shifts from the green river valleys to the dry limestone causses. This is a different France: Mediterranean in character, with scrubby oak, juniper, dry stone walls, and ancient dolmens scattered across the plateau. The walking is exposed and can be hot in summer, but the light and the emptiness have a stark beauty. The causses continue to dominate the landscape all the way to Cahors.