Condom

The late Gothic cathedral dates from the early 16th century and has a spacious, airy interior with fine stone vaulting. The cloister, attached to the south side of the cathedral, is peaceful and well preserved, with carved stone arcades surrounding a garden. The cathedral is not as architecturally dramatic as Conques or Moissac, but it has a dignified elegance that reflects the wealth and confidence of the Armagnac region at its peak.

Condom is the capital of the Armagnac brandy region. Armagnac is France's oldest spirit, predating Cognac by about 150 years, and is produced from grapes grown in the rolling vineyards that surround the town. Several distilleries in and around Condom offer tastings and tours. The brandy is typically richer and more characterful than Cognac, with flavours of dried fruit, vanilla, and spice. A glass of Armagnac after dinner in Condom is the perfect way to mark the transition into Gascony.

The Baise river runs through the town and the riverside promenade is pleasant for an evening walk. The stone bridges, the tree-lined banks, and the reflections of the old buildings in the water create a scene of quiet French provincial beauty. Condom has a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere that is characteristic of the Gers department, one of the least touristy and most authentically rural parts of France.

About 4 km off the GR65 (and many pilgrims include it), Larressingle is a tiny fortified village enclosed within 13th-century walls and a moat. It is sometimes called the "little Carcassonne of the Gers" and is classified as one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France." The village is so small that it takes five minutes to walk from one end to the other, but the intact walls, the ruined keep, and the atmosphere of a place that has barely changed in 700 years make it worth the detour.

You are now in Gascony, one of the great food regions of France. The cuisine is rich, generous, and unapologetically indulgent. Duck confit, foie gras, magret de canard, garbure (a thick vegetable and meat soup), and croustade (a flaky pastry filled with apple and Armagnac) are the local staples. The portions are large and the prices are low. The Gers has the highest density of centenarians in France, which the locals attribute to Armagnac, duck fat, and the Gascon attitude to life. Eat well in