Pola de Allande / La Puela

Tomorrow is the hardest day on the Camino Primitivo. The climb to Puerto del Palo (1,146m) begins immediately from Pola de Allande and is long, steep, and relentless. There are no cafes, bars, or water sources for the first 19 km. Buy water and food tonight. Check the weather forecast. Set your alarm early. If you are fit and prepared, the mountain crossing is one of the most spectacular days on any Camino route.

Several houses in Pola de Allande were built by indianos, locals who emigrated to Cuba, Mexico, or Argentina in the 19th century and returned with enough money to build grand homes in their native towns. These colonial-style houses, with their ornate balconies and painted facades, stand alongside older medieval stone buildings. The contrast is striking and tells a story of emigration, ambition, and homecoming that repeated itself across rural Asturias.

Several cafes in Pola de Allande open from 6am, serving breakfast to pilgrims before the mountain stage. Take advantage of this. A full breakfast of coffee, toast, tortilla, and juice will fuel the long climb ahead. In the evening, the restaurants serve traditional Asturian food at fair prices. Eat a proper dinner. Tomorrow demands it.

Pola de Allande is small enough to walk in 20 minutes. The old quarter has narrow streets, stone buildings, and the Iglesia de San Andres with its simple bell tower. The Town Hall is unusually ornate for a town of this size. The valley setting, with green mountains rising steeply on all sides, gives the town a sheltered, intimate feeling. Enjoy the calm before the storm.